Kalalau Trail (Kauai)

March 2024

Total Miles: 28.8 miles

Why am I hiking the Kalalau Trail?

I’ve been wanting to hike this trail even before I started getting into backpacking. I’ve seen so many photos of the Napali Coast in Kauai and I knew it would be a magical experience. My wife, daughter and I were on our Spring Break trip to The Big Island in March so I decided to see if I could get the permit to hike the trail. If I could get the permit then I’d extend my trip after our Spring Break portion and then fly over solo to Kauai to make this dream a reality. 

On obtaining the permit

Tip: You need to be online RIGHT at the time the permit is released and then refresh and move fast! These permits go within seconds each day. It may take several attempts to get it, but good planning will help increase your chances. 

If you hike the whole trail you need a permit. You can hike the first 2 miles of the trail without a permit, but after that it is required. After trying several times to get the camping permit here I finally got it! I received the permit for 3 days so that I had some flexibility in case the weather was bad. 

Immediately after receiving the permit, and if you plan to park a car in the lot vs using a shuttle service, you need to secure your parking permit. You need your hiking permit first as it asks for your permit reservation number in order to secure your parking. You get the parking permit here.

Print them both out and be prepared to show them when you arrive into the park as there is a person at the gate who checks for overnight permits. 

Food

To be safe, I planned to bring 3 full days worth of food, but was really just planning on being on the trail for two days. However, the extra day gave me flexibility in case I wanted to stay another day, or if the weather was bad and I didn't want to leave Kalalau beach for safety reasons; i.e. a wet trail in the first several miles on the return can be extremely dangerous. 

All packed up and ready to go

Note: The Quest cookies were not good at all. I would not bring them again.

Gear

Here's a link to my full pack. Everything I carried on the trail. Minus food and water it came to just under 11lbs. I wound up using everything except for the rain pack cover, but I was happy to have it just in case I needed it.

General Tips

Tip: hiking this trail with trekking poles for me was a must. It's definitely possible to hike the trail without trekking poles, as people do it every single day, however, trekking poles provide a lot of reassurance, especially in areas that are a little more narrow, slippery and overall sketchy. There are areas of the trail that are slanted cliffs with loose gravel pointed directly towards the ocean below. Being able to have trekking poles in those sections provided me with reassurance as each step can be a little daunting in those sections. I say this not to scare you, as I don’t think the trail is as scary as a lot of articles and YouTube videos make it out to be, however, there are areas that are definitely dangerous and require you to pay real close attention to each step and, for me, trekking poles were an essential tool for this trail and I’d highly recommend them.

Tip: I decided to fly with my trekking poles vs buying poles when I arrived. It was a bit of a bummer as that was really the only thing I needed to check in, luggage wise. But I did the math and buying some cheap poles vs paying for the luggage fee there and home would be about the same cost, but I’d have my nice poles and that was worth the $55 total cost for doing this. I bought this tube off Amazon and put them in there. This is the first time I did this and found it to work quite well. 

Tip: The trail is marked fairly well, but there are parts of the trail where it’s easy to get lost as people have made alternate paths over the years that lead to nowhere and it’s really easy to get slightly off trail and, in the jungle, the trail could be 10 feet away from you but your can’t see it because it all looks the same. For this reason I recommend downloading a map beforehand and using it. I use AllTrails and had the map downloaded on my phone. I did wind up checking it a few times on the hike and it helped get me right back on trail. I definitely recommend doing this. 

Note: During the first half of the hike there are not a lot of water sources, so I highly recommend getting water at Hanakapi'ai beach (from the stream) before you head up as there are just too few water sources in the first half. Then, once you get to Hanakoa, there’s about two water sources every mile, but up until then it’s very sparse.

Day 1

I left at 7:30am on March 24th. Directly upon starting the trail, it goes up, and I mean directly up into the jungle. It's steep right out of the gate. It’s beautiful, but not beautiful because of the coast just yet, beautiful because of the jungle and the surrounding vegetation which encompasses you completely. 

And the adventure begins!

Upon coming out of the jungle I got my first glimpse of the coast and it is absolutely stunning. It almost looks like a painting, so grand and completely mind blowing. I was here once about 13 years ago. My wife was pregnant with our daughter so we only went on the first two miles. It was special to be here again and to think about the last 13 years as a couple and as parents. I am so grateful to have such a wonderful life and family. Places like this help make those feelings grow stronger. 

Tip: As I looked down to my right, the cliffs are sheer and go right down hundreds of feet to the water. If I look, I can see that it’s incredibly dangerous. However if I keep my eyes on the trail I have no problem. So, for now, if I want to look down I’m going to stop and look down, otherwise I’m keeping my eyes in front of me and, when the trail narrows, I’ll keep my eyes on my feet.

Once I reached Hanakapi'ai Beach, there is a river which you need to cross. Sometimes the river here can be too high and dangerous to cross and this can change at a moment's notice so you need to be prepared to wait it out if need be for the river to subside. Luckily the river wasn’t too high and the crossing wasn’t too bad. This is a nice place to chill out and get water. More on that later.

I decided to hike back to Hanakapi'ai falls. I wanted to hike there now as I thought I might be too tired on the way back and I did not want to skip seeing this waterfall. I LOVE waterfalls and I knew this hike had a couple to see and I was full of energy and I was feeling ready to trek back deep into the jungle! 

Just as the trail starts towards Hanakapi'ai falls there’s an outhouse toilet. The smell is otherworldly awful and I needed to breathe out of my mouth to get through it as fast as I could. Right outside the outhouse the trail splits, one way to Hanakapi'ai falls and the other way is the permitted section going towards Kalalau beach. I didn’t realize the hike back to Hanakapi'ai falls was 2 miles in and 2 miles back out. That was much longer than I had anticipated adding another 4 miles to the hike today. The good news is that the trail is flatter overall in this section but it’s easy to miss the trail in parts. I found that, in general on the trail, wherever there is a water crossing you need to double check that you are on the trail when you get to the other side as, over time, people have made alternate trails that lead to nowhere, so it’s a good idea to check your gps from time to time to make sure you’re on the right trail.

Outhouse and trail fork to the falls and back to The Kalalau Trail

Walking back to the falls you are in the deep jungle. This is the perfect environment for mosquitos, so I pulled up my hood over my head to cover my neck from getting bitten along the way. Surprisingly, there was no one around on this section of the trail and it kind of felt like I was just hiking into the unknown jungle. I didn’t see anyone else on the trail as I hiked back to the falls and there were times when I wondered If I was going the right way. I did check my AllTrails map a couple times to make sure I was heading in the right direction. It assured me that I was on the right path, but it still felt strange. Even though Hanakapi'ai falls are technically not part of The Kalalau Trail, it feels like I have to see it, so I continued on through the Jungle.

As I continued on I came around a corner and got my first glimpse of the falls and I was completely blown away. I knew I had about another quarter mile to go and I was definitely charged up to stand at the base and look up at nature's awesomeness so I pushed on feeling a new sense of enthusiasm.  

Hanakapi'ai falls

Upon arriving at Hanakapi'ai falls there were just two other people there and it was so absolutely magical to stand in this giant cathedral with moss covered rock walls hundreds of feet high and look up at this magical waterfall tumbling down into an Olympic size pool. I took a few pictures and then immediately jumped into the pool to swim. It was super cold, but not unbearably cold. I swam for a while on my back, looking up at the falls, and the beautiful view from here. This place is absolutely amazing and I’m so glad I decided to hike in today to see it. After enjoying the falls for a bit, I had a snack, rested then headed back out around 9:45am. 

One thing that is really great about this hike is that you don’t have to worry about poisonous snakes, insects or plants. That is something I have to think about back home quite a bit so it’s really nice to be able to just enjoy the hike and take it all in.

On the way back I encountered more people hiking in. Some of them told me I was crazy to be hiking all the way to Kalalau beach that day now that it was about 11am. I didn’t know better so I just carried on. I figured I could camp at the halfway point, Hanakoa, if I needed to. 

Getting back to Hanakapi'ai beach there were loads of day hikers here now. I was happy to continue onto the permitted area where it became immediately quiet and I felt immersed in the trail once again. 

Now that I’m back on the main trail, it seems like each mile takes a lot longer than normal miles. I guess that makes sense because the terrain is up and down non-stop and, in many sections, you have to be aware of each step you take. Overall, I averaged about 2 mph on this hike, however after the mile seven marker I think that dropped down to about one to one-and-a-half per hour for about the next 3 miles as there’s so many sections from mile 7, 8 and 9 that really require you to pay super close attention. There are only a few sections that are flat and you’ll know when that is because it feels so good to have a little break.

There’s a section around the mile seven marker that, for me, was the most difficult of the trail. It goes downhill and has a lot of loose gravel and dirt and you really have to make sure each step is placed with confidence because it’s very easy to slip in that section but just take it slow and it won’t be a problem at all. 

The views along the way are jaw dropping. You hike in and out of valleys and each one seems better than the next. After many miles I saw the sign that said, “beach camping straight ahead” and I was a bit surprised because I didn’t realize that I had actually arrived at Kalalau Beach! I had been dreading hiking the incredibly narrow section of “Crawlers Ledge” all day. This is a section of the hike that I’d read and seen many YouTube videos about being treacherous. I had been talking to people quite a bit along the way who were returning back from their hike. Some of them decided to turn around at Crawler’s Ledge because it seemed too dangerous for them. Because of this I had been psyching myself out. I was worried that Crawler’s Ledge might be a bit too much for me too, however, I actually didn’t even realize that I had hiked through it! By the time I got to the beach I mentioned this to other people and they said that the videos online really hype up the scare factor of the section. I felt so relieved because that was really mentally psyching me out throughout the day, thinking about my safety and making sure that I would be able to confidently make the trail out to the beach. I was happy and relieved I had made it safely. 

Just before I hiked into Kalalau beach there’s a really cool pool and little mini waterfall that you can swim in. It’s really a magical spot. I didn’t stop here on the way in as I still thought I had more miles to go. 

I arrived at Kalalau Beach around 4:30pm. I decided to hike all the way to the back to the end of the beach. There I found a waterfall where people were getting their freshwater and also taking rinse showers. I was looking for the best place to camp as there were still plenty of spots to choose from, I just wanted to be sure I had seen the whole area before picking my spot. I walked back a little bit and found the perfect spot to camp. It had such a great vibe and I was able to see the beach from inside my tent. 

I met a couple, Dan and Terry. He owns his own events business and she is a middle school teacher. They were right around my age, too. We talked for a while and swapped stories of how we wound up being on this trail. 

After I got my camp set up, I walked around and explored the area a bit more. Just past the end of the beach there’s a rock section that, on low tide, you can walk around and it opens up to a smaller beach with two little caverns. They’re not quite caves, but you can definitely walk into them a little bit. I loved this little surprise as I didn’t know these were here. I love caves so this was a big bonus. Caves remind me so much of The Goonies movie, my all time favorite, and adventure. 

I talked to Dan a bit more and he said if the tide was a little lower, you can actually go a bit further and around the next rock where there actually are caves. He told me you can walk back about 600 feet! That sounded really cool. Unfortunately, the tide was too high, so I wasn’t able to see those and I wasn’t going to risk trying to swim out past the current to try and get there. I wanted to be super safe and I’m perfectly okay that I didn’t see them.

I made dinner out on the beach and sat and watched the sunset. It may have been just because I was so hungry, but the meal was incredibly tasty. As it sat and ate my food, I watched a family of whales gush air from the sea and wave their tails out of the water as they passed by. It was pretty fantastic. And, as I sat there I realized that I was witnessing the best sunset I’d ever seen in my life. I took it in. The sun, the ocean, the sea cliffs, the whales, the secluded nature of where I was. There is something magical about being in this place. I have dreamed about being here for so long and just being able to sit back and enjoy it all was so awe inspiring, I just felt so grateful.  

Day 2

When I woke up Dan and Terry were gone. I heard them before the sun rose this morning, but didn’t realize they were packing up and heading out. Bummer, I was hoping to chat with them some more as they were both really cool people. 

After getting some fresh water, I talked to another couple who were packed and heading out. They told me that today the weather forecast looked good, but tomorrow looked like heavy rain and they wanted to make it out and not get stuck at the beach. Although I do have a permit to be here for a couple of nights, I decided I’d enjoy the morning, take a little swim in the little pools just up the trail then head on out. Also, the thought of a yummy meal back in town at Paco’s Tacos sounded like the most incredible thing to me at that moment. I also have a few other adventures planned while I’m in Kauai, so it’ll be good to get back to town before the rain so that I can rest up and be ready for those as well.

The morning at Kalalau Beach was perfect, quiet and peaceful. I was able to enjoy the sunlight peeking out and shining its first rays onto the sea cliffs above. I took my time, had breakfast, packed up my camp and got freshwater. I enjoyed the beach a little bit then decided to head out around 7:50am.

Morning view looking back at Kalalau beach with the sun starting to make it's way over the cliffs

The last two hours of the hike yesterday were a little rough on my left knee. I don’t usually get sore on hikes, and I was kind of surprised this happened on such a short hike, however, at the end of the day I took three vitamin I pills (ibuprofen) and hoped a good night's sleep would help. When I woke up my knee felt perfect! I was super stoked about that as I knew I had a big hike in front of me and it wasn’t going to be an easy one. Unfortunately, about a mile-and-a-half into the hike it started hurting again so I decided to just take it easy throughout the day and not put too much stress on it.

I met a guy on the way out. He said his name was “Satan” as I passed in front of his camp. He said, “This is my way and in order to pass you have to leave me something.” Instinctively, I blew him a kiss and told him I’m giving him love and, reluctantly, he said he’d accept it, but only if I meant it. I told him I meant it, and I did. I continued on. Although this was a strange encounter, this bizarre moment in time brought an even slightly bigger smile to my face this morning.

I was happy that I started a bit early this morning as when the sun comes out over the seacliff it's right in your face. Luckily, the mountains provide cover and shade throughout the day as you weave in and out of the different valleys. However, when the sun is right in your face, it can be pretty brutal. Also coming up out of Kalalau valley there’s a red sand area that’s fully exposed. I was able to make it up and out of there before the sun was able to peek out and blaze down on me. But it felt like the sun was chasing me as I huffed my way up that section. 

The views this morning feel totally different as the sun hits the landscape differently and displays new areas of the mountains that I couldn’t see yesterday.

When I got to Hanakoa I decided to hike the additional 2 miles there and back to see Hanakoa falls and boy was I glad I did. These are even more majestic than Hanakapi'ai falls. When I arrived I saw two other hikers were there. It was Dan and Terry! I was happy to see them again as we had a great conversation the night before and we continued our conversation at the falls. I spent about an hour here enjoying the beauty and looking up. Hanakoa falls is surrounded by giant lush green rock walls. Beautiful birds flew overhead dancing so high up. It was nice to lay down and look up. I also took quite a long swim here. I felt the water was not as cold as Hanakapi'ai falls, but that might have been because I was pretty hot. I had a nice break and snack, said goodbye to Dan and Terry then headed back out on the trail. 

Hanakoa falls, so incredible!

The sounds of the trail are a mix of hundreds of incredible birds singing songs, the ocean crashing against the sea cliffs and helicopters flying all around you.

The hike back was relatively straight forward. My knee was sore but not too terrible, and I did my best not to put too much pressure on it. 

Coming up out of the valley from the main beach I started to enter back into civilization as people can hike into this section without a permit. There’s tons of people that come in for the day, so hiking out I did see quite a few people along the trail, and it was kind of nice knowing that I was nearing the end. 

It’s a rough trail and definitely taxing on the body, but absolutely stunning in every way! And now, I’m ready for a nice shower and a good meal. Paco’s Tacos here I come!